Setting Up A Planted Aquarium – The Liddle Fish Doctor
www.TheLiddleFishDoctor.com Servicing and Maintaining Aquariums in Honolulu and throughout the Hawaiian Islands. We set-up and service saltwater and freshwater aquariums in Honolulu. This video was produced by Tetra and explains how to set up a planted aquarium from start to finish. It shows the importance of gravels, and substrates required to have a healthy planted freshwater aquarium. Visit Our Website http Keywords : Aquarium Service Honolulu Aquarium Service Oahu Aquarium Maintenance Honolulu Aquarium Maintenance Oahu Fish Tanks Honolulu Fish Tanks Oahu Saltwater Fish Freshwater Fish
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Fish Care: Setting Up And Maintaining An Aquarium – Part 2
An old programme hosted by Joe Yaiullo made in the late 80s covering the essentials for setting up a freshwater aquarium. Also covers a variety of tropical fish types, basic maintenance, and how a wet/dry filter works. I decided to upload this because I got tired of watching all the so called “expertvillage” videos with all their inaccurate, misleading information. This segment is far better in terms of properly educating potential aquarists. No copyright issues intended! I just wanted to share an educational video.
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Categories: Tropical Fish Aquarium Tags: Aquarium, Care, Fish, Maintaining, Part, Setting
Fish Care: Setting Up And Maintaining An Aquarium – Part 1
An old programme hosted by Joe Yaiullo made in the late 80s covering the essentials for setting up a freshwater aquarium. Also covers a variety of tropical fish types, basic maintenance, and how a wet/dry filter works. I decided to upload this because I got tired of watching all the so called “expertvillage” videos with all their inaccurate, misleading information. This segment is far better in terms of properly educating potential aquarists. No copyright issues intended! I just wanted to share an educational video.
Categories: Tropical Fish Aquarium Tags: Aquarium, Care, Fish, Maintaining, Part, Setting
Setting Up Your Tropical Aquarium
Setting up your first tropical aquarium may seem quite daunting, but it really is quite simple! There are a number of starter kits on the market which come with all the equipment you’ll need. If you prefer to buy them separately, let’s run through what you will need.
Aquarium
The first thing you will need to decide on is where the aquarium is to go. This must be away from any direct sources of heat, and near to a power point. The choice of location will dictate the size of tank you are able to accommodate. It should be borne in mind that some species of fish, for example Angels, require a tank with greater depth.
Filter
All tropical aquariums need some sort of filtration system, whether it is internal or external. The benefit of an internal filter is they are very economical and easy to install and maintain. The benefit of an external filter is they are aesthetically much more pleasing, principally because they are discreetly tucked away in the aquarium cabinet so they are not on show! They do not therefore take up valuable space in your tank.
They tend to be bigger than internal filters, which means more power, greater turnover of water, and reduced maintenance.
Lighting
Lighting can make a huge difference to the aquarium, drastically affecting both the appearance of the tank and the colouration of the fish. Some bulbs are specially designed to aid plant growth; some to bring out the colour of your tropical fish.
It is advisable to keep your tank light on for no more than eight hours per day to avoid problems with algae.
Air Pump
If you have a heavily stocked or planted tank an air pump is a must.
Plants absorb CO2 and produce oxygen in the daytime – all well and good for your fish. When the lights go off, however, the process reverses. They deplete oxygen levels and produce CO2, which could leave your fish gasping for air. We recommend setting up a timer so that when the lights go off, the air pump comes on. Alternatively, you may prefer to leave your air pump on all the time – a curtain of bubbles does make an attractive display.
Heater
You will need a heater to regulate the temperature of your tank. We recommend stick on thermometers which attach to the front of your tank so that you can keep an eye on water temperature.
Substrate
There are two types of substrate: gravel and sand. Both are available in a huge range of colours. With a freshwater aquarium you will need to ensure that the substrate is inert and will not alter the PH of the water.
Ornaments
Whether it’s mopani or bogwood, a sunken ship or a castle, ornaments make a great focal point to your tank, and make interesting hidey holes for your fish.
Plants
The addition of plants in your tropical aquarium provide a much more natural environment for your fish. Real plants aid the water filtration process, absorbing harmful nitrates in the water. They can also aid breeding in your fish. Artificial plants can be incredibly convincing these days however, and are easy to install and maintain.
A tropical aquarium makes a great focal point to any room and provides hours of fun for all the family. They’re especially popular with children! No wonder fishkeeping has grown to become one of the most popular passtimes in the UK!
Lindsay Coope
The great news is that if you shop online for Tropical Aquariums or for Tropical Aquarium Accessories you can find unbeatable deals at great prices!
A short video of a 20 gallon fish house. Involved are juveniles of six unique species such as an angelfish, a leopard ctenopoma, a red tailed shark, a common pleco, four varied danios, and a male and female guppy. I know its a bit crammed but the bigger fish will soon reside in the up and coming 55 gallon. Enjoy until then!!!
Categories: Aquarium Tropical Fish Tags: Aquarium, Setting, Tropical
Setting Up Your Tropical Fish Tank Correctly In 10 Steps
When setting up your tropical fish tank you need to consider ten specific elements. Here we cover the first five to do with the tank, heating, lighting, filtration & aeration and landscaping.
1. Tank Decisions
Decide on the size of tank you want and the material its made of. Choose from glass or acrylic, with and without metal frames. Acrylic will be lighter but tends to scratch. You will not want a tank less than 45 cm long, 30 cm wide and 30 cm deep unless you are buying it as a hospital, quarantine or breeding tank.
In calculating how many fish can be accommodated in your tank the depth is not taken into consideration as it is based on the surface area which is the length times the width. As a rule, divide the surface area by 12 to get the length in fish you can accommodate. For example a 24 x 12 x 12 (inches) tank has a surface area of 288 sq ins and will accommodate 24 inches of fish; 24 x 1 inch or 12 x 2 inch fish etc etc.
But bear in mind that you should use the adult length of the fish in your calculations. Otherwise your aquarium will become overcrowded as the your fish grow and there will probably not be enough oxygen to sustain them.
2. Heating System
Unless you are planning to stock cold water fish only, then you will need to install a heater and thermostat (separate or combined). Often a glass tube with both of them in will be used with temperature control on the top of it and a separate thermometer installed.
If you have a bigger tank the heat may not get around as efficiently so you will probably install two heaters. For a twelve gallon aquarium you would need a one hundred and fifty watt heater based on having ten watts for every gallon.
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3. Lighting System
Lighting is necessary for plant growth and also shows off the fish at their colorful best. Fluorescent tubes are available for this purpose and give off less heat than other types of bulb. The lights are usually installed into your tank cover. It is not advisable to have your tank lighting on all day.
At night, in order to achieve conditions seen in the wild, you can dim the lighting or switch it off. Your ventilated cover will not only hold the lighting system but also protect the fish from household pollutants (sprays, dust, dirt etc) but keep them from jumping out and prevent loss of water by evaporation.
4. Aeration and Filtration
An air pump is not essential and if it used to get more oxygen (and therefore more fish) into your tank and it fails then your fish will die! But it can be used in combination with a filter to clean up the water. For example a filter may have a combination of a physical layer of material to collect fine solids and a layer of charcoal to chemically adsorb organic pollutants and maintain the water quality.
Air can be passed into the tank via air stones on the end of the tubing. Ensure you have a n anti-siphon valve for the air pump. Use of an under gravel filter (a biological filter) system involves a flat plate with outlets that goes under the gravel substrate and is powered by an air pump pushing air and water through the substrate which encourages bacteria to develop in it that will break down the toxic waste products from the fish, dead plants etc.
5. Tank Aquascaping
Decorations cover real rocks, synthetic rocks, real wood, synthetic wood and background panorama. They act as areas for the fish to hide and for shelter if they feel like it. Also as a resting area at night or in the day for nocturnal species. You do not want to use rocks that are limestone based as the calcium in it will produce harder water unless of course this type of water is recommended. And do not use any that appear to have metallic content in them.
Caves can be set up for cave-dwelling species by joining a few rocks together with silicone sealant or you could buy a purpose made one. Rocks can be built up to form the background or you could employ a photographic underwater scene wrapped around the back and sides of the tank to great effect. The apparatus used in your aquarium can be disguised by using your ornaments, logs and rocks.
Wash the gravel substrate before use, as well as ornaments, decorations, rocks etc and grade the level of the gravel from three inches at the back to about two at the front. Run water through the gravel until it becomes clear.
You are only restricted by your imagination when developing your aquascape. But bear in mind that you want to maintain a balance and keep a realistic amount of free swimming area for both the fish and you to see them enjoying themselves.
The remaining five steps in setting up your tropical fish tank cover water quality, aquarium plants,fitting out your aquarium, selecting healthy fish and adding fish to your tank.
Get your free e-course from webmaster and author Paul Curran, on how to set up and maintain a beautiful aquarium, have the healthiest, happiest fish around AND learn more about steps 6 to 10 in setting up your tropical fish tank
Exotic Fish Care Guide – How To Handle The Setting Up Of Your Aquarium
Ever considered setting up a tropical fish tank? Millions around the globe enjoy having exotic fish keeping as a relaxing, and enjoyable hobby. Here’s some tips to get you going regarding needed equipment, fish, and more.
It’s not difficult at all to create an exotic fish tank but of course, only if you know what you are doing. If you have not done this previously, it might seem somewhat intimidating. Most who are not used to setting up tanks get started with freshwater tanks, as salt water aquariums are typically much more delicate and require more work. When searching equipment for your saltwater aquarium, consider supplies such as gravel, plants, stones, and other tank furnishings as well as equipment like water filtration systems, heaters, and thermometers.
As a base for your aquarium, there are 2 things you may go for: gravel and sand. But what you must know is that sand takes a bit longer to settle than gravel dust, which makes the latter more popular than the previous one. Another great part of using gravel as your tank’s base is that it is available in a diverse selection of colors, shapes, dimensions, and materials, helping you to create astonishing tropical paradises or go wild with your personal preference in colours and textures Also not to be ignored is the fact that both gravel and sand are important for grounding vegetation, stones, and other arrangements.
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Another necessary aspect of setting up a tropical fish aquarium is the plants you’ll want to use. Many people love live plants because of their natural appearance and the natural boost of oxygen they lend to the tank. Still, as organic vegetation are sometimes nibbled on by herbivorous fish, others opt for artifical plants. Likewise, keep in mind that organic plants can bring in parasites to your aquarium, particularly as snails lay eggs on the undersides of them. If you ever notice thousands of little snails consuming your organic vegetation (with or without bothering the fish), then that is a sign that the aquarium has been infested. Other than finding this occurring, there’s little chance that you know that your aquarium has been infested.
But how should you deal with timid and nocturnal fish? There’s a lot of people who choose such species and maintaining the fish healthy and joyful do takes a unique set up of the tank. Well, here’s where stones, timber hunks and other big arrangements come into play with their important role of providing hiding places as well as sleeping spots for the fish. As simple as this step of adding stones to your tank may look like, as important it is in minimizing the stress and encouraging happy fish. Such instruments also make stunning decorations.
And finally, the filters, heaters and other additional equipment. this is all necessary stuff for controlling the water purity and temperature. 2 essential things to keep in mind regarding water filtering and temperature are these: the tank has to be stored at a climate of 77 degrees Fahrenheit, unless specified otherwise, and the water filter must be looked at frequently between cleanings, as it can quickly become clogged.
These are only a few tips when it comes to setting up an exotic fish tank. In following this advice, soon you’ll have the best setting for your new fish to dwell in.
Need a guide about tropical fish? Visit us today for an instant download and to learn everything about setting up and maintaining tropical fish aquariums
Get your FREE Fish Compatibility Guide at www.tropicalfishtanksblog.com Discover how to correct common fish tank water problems causing your fish to clamp, become lethargic or develop finrot. Ammonia and pH and critcal components of good water quality for healthy fish. Get a FREE compatability guide to know what fish can live together before you buy. Just go to: www.tropicalfishtanksblog.com
Video Rating: 0 / 5
Step by step guide to setting up a freshwater fish tank
Unless you want to spend the next three months buying new fish every few days, get a book and read up on fish and fish tanks. Without good filters, pure water, and a good water treatment to prevent “ich” and other maladies, you are wasting time and money. Here are a few pointers on how to get started.
Start with a smaller tank.
Do not start with a huge tank if you do not have any experience with keeping fish. Get a cheap 10 or 20 gallon tank. If you want to buy a kit, that is alright. You just need to make sure that you get either an under the gravel filter or a power filter that hooks up to the back of the tank. Either will do a good job, and both require regular cleaning with the proper tools.
Get a good filter for your aquarium.
The filters will come with cleaning instructions, but you will have to buy the supplies and tools for cleaning separately. A box filter that sits in the tank will only be a lot of problems and you will end up replacing it within a month or two with a better filter. Get the better one now.
Put the tank in a place where the air temperature will not vary much.
Set the tank up in a room in the house where there are not too many changes in the temperature. Right next to a busy outdoor exit is not the best. If you do not get your water from a well, you will need some treatment to take the chlorine and other toxins out of the water. Usually, this amounts to a pill or two or a spoon full or two of a powder.
You will need an air pump for the fish tank.
You will want to add your air pump at this time too. Throw in some gravel and a few toys and fake plants because fish like to hide. Set up your tank and filters and allow them to run for a week or so without fish. This will stabilize your tank so the fish will thrive better.
Get a thermometer and heater.
Depending on the type of fish, you will probably need a thermometer and heater. All tropical fish need warm water. When you buy the fish, ask for the food that will be best for that kind of fish. You will bring your fish home in a plastic bag.
Put the bag with your new fish into the tank for a while without letting the fish out.
Just put the bag in the tank with the fish in it. Let it float around for 15 or 20 minutes for the water temperatures to become equal. Then get your hands wet and open the bag in the water. Let the fish and water both out into the tank. Put the lid on the tank, turn on the light, and begin to enjoy your fish. Wait a few hours before the first feeding.
Written by ATeal
Hand feeding my 6 discus fish in their aquarium. The tank is a 260ltr Fluval Osaka aquarium with a fluval 305 filter returning over a spraybar. I have 1 or 2 300w heaters in the tank, dependant on the waters temperature stability. IMy discus are a mosaic leopard, penang eruption, white butterfly, 2 pigeon bloods and a tiger snakeskin. They are eating defrosted beefheart. These fish are in my opinion, the most beautiful and rewarding tropical fish to keep and in my experience are not as difficult to keep as people believe as long as you can give them the time they need and supply them with the best quality water. I change approximately 120litres every 2-4 days in order to maintain the optimum water conditions. They also require low pH and soft water as well as high temperatures.
Video Rating: 4 / 5
Categories: Tropical Fish Aquarium Tags: Fish, freshwater, Guide, Setting, Step, tank
Cycling the Tropical Aquarium – A Guide to Setting Up Tropical Aquariums
When we talk about cycling the tropical aquarium it may sound quite daunting, but the procedure is actually very straightforward. All that is needed is a basic understanding of the nitrogen cycle, and ph, nitrite and nitrate testing kits. If you don’t want to go to the expense of buying these kits, don’t worry. Local fish stockists will often test samples of aquarium water for free. Don’t be afraid to ask!
Animal waste and decaying food create nitrogen, which turns into ammonia. Ammonia is deadly to fish. Good bacteria turns ammonia into nitrites, and then into nitrates. Nitrates can also be harmful to fish, but are absorbed by live plants, completing the cycle.
Good bacteria are present in the filter media of an established tropical fish tank. When you start out from scratch, the amounts of good bacteria in your tank will be negligible.
Fish added at this point will produce ammonia and, as there is insufficient beneficial bacteria to process it, ammonia will build up and your fish’s health may suffer. Ultimately, they may die.
You can get the good bacteria off to a flying start by adding a cupful of gravel from an established tank. Take care to make sure that the fish in the source tank are healthy, otherwise you might also be introducing disease. Media from the filter of a healthy cycled tank will be the quickest way to build up good bacteria in your new aquarium, but if neither the gravel nor filter media are an option, it is perfectly ok to start from scratch – it will just take a little bit longer. Beneficial bacteria are everywhere; once you have a source of ammonia in your tank, good bacteria will establish a colony in your filter.
To begin, fill your tank up with water (be sure to add a dechlorinator first) and switch on the equipment, including the filter, and any air pump and setting the temperature to 80 degrees.
You now need to start off the ammonia cycle.
This can be achieved by dropping a few flakes of fish food into the aquarium every twelve hours.
When the tank is cycling, ammonia levels will rise, ultimately quite sharply. Once they have ‘spiked’, they will fall again. Then nitrites will begin to rise. Again these spike, and trail off. Finally, nitrates then begin to rise. Once these are being produced, you have established a bed of good bacteria. Your tank has cycled and you’re ready for everyone’s favourite part – choosing the fish!
Lindsay Coope
The great news is that if you shop online for Tropical Aquariums or for Tropical Aquarium Accessories you can find unbeatable deals at great prices!
Setting Up Your New Aquarium
The great thing about starting up a tropical freshwater aquarium is it’s the best system for beginners. Tropical aquariums are
relatively cheap and the fish are usually hardy. Marine aquariums, with saltwater fish, are more expensive and you will
need a lot of knowledge and good techniques from the outset.
When you have purchased your aquarium you need remember these points:
Wash the gravel:
Put it in a bowl, place it under cold running water and keep stirring the gravel until the water that flows from it is clean.
Stir the gravel around vigorously to make absolutely sure you get it as clean as possible before returning the gravel to
your aquarium.
Decorating material:
Wash any decorative ornaments, plastic plants and rocks thoroughly using cold running water. If you have a background
secure it firmly to your aquarium..
Clean the tank:
Clean the inside of the aquarium with clean water, checking for leaks whilst doing so. Then empty the aquarium of water.
Is everything correct?
Before you fill the aquarium with water for your fish, check the filter (attaching firmly and ensuring no plants or rocks
are in the way), heater (attaching firmly and set at 27 degrees), ensure the light and the thermostat are positioned correctly.
(Do Not Turn Your Heater On At This Point)
Add the gravel:
Make sure that there’s a depth of 4 cm.
Add the water half way:
Now is the time to add your cleaned décor or plants easily. It is best to put the taller plants at the back and the smaller
one’s at the front, but its all in the eye of the beholder.
For ease of maintenance in the future you may want to consider using plastic plants.
Fish-Fish-Fish believe the Algarde ranges are the most realistic. If you use large rocks as decoration, make sure they are
firmly bedded in so that they can never topple.
Add the water all the way:
Watch out because if you fill it right to the brim, then later you want to change the arrangement and put your hands in and
the water overflows- whoops!
Important!! Condition the water:
Before adding any fish to your new aquarium you must remove all the chlorine from the water.
Chlorine/Chloramine can damage your fish and Fish-Fish-Fish recommend API Aquarium Stress Coat to assist in
treating your water.
Turn it all on:
Turn on your heater, lighting and filter systems. You should get a noise and a flow of bubbles when you turn the filter on.
This will settle to a more steady flow after a minute or two.
Before adding any fish, let the filter run for 5-7 days to let the aquarium settle.
You may notice that there maybe a lot of bubbles clinging to the glass – this is because tap water is pressurised and as the
cold water warms in the aquarium, gasses are released. Let these dissipate as they will disappear when aerated.
Make sure that the temperature is set correct, at about 27C.
Add the fish!!:
Add only a couple of fish to start off with.
Use the Equalising method, by floating the fish using the bag in which they were purchased. Leave them in the bag
floating for 30 minutes before releasing them.
(You must not over feed these fish, 1 small pinch of food every other day is sufficient at this time)
Adding more fish:
Before adding more fish make sure the existing fish living in your aquarium are happy.
It’s a good idea at this time to do a nitrite test and Fish-Fish-Fish recommend Hagen Nitrite Test Kit for this.
If your nitrite levels remain high, please phone Fish-Fish-Fish for advice. When the nitrite level is okay you can add more fish.
Fish-Fish-Fish always suggest adding a couple of fish at a time, take things slowly as there is no rush!
Once you have added more fish you need to feed them once a day.
If you have any queries or need advice in setting up your aquarium, Fish-Fish-Fish are only a phonecall away and will offer you
free advice anytime.
Maintenance of your aquarium:
Now you have successfully set up your aquarium you now need to keep it maintained.
This is vital to keeping your aquarium healthy and fish happy.
A typical aquarium maintenance schedule is as follows
1. Clean the Glass (every 3 days) :
Aquariums always have algae build up on the glass making the appearance of the aquarium unsightly.
This is very easy to remove using a combination of tools. Fish-Fish-Fish recommend Tetra Aquarium Glass Scraper.
2. Cleaning Gravel (every 2 weeks):
It is very important to clean your gravel to stop waste building up on the bottom of the aquarium.
It’s very easy to clean using a gravel cleaner and Fish-Fish-Fish recommend Rena Telescopic Vacuum Cleaner.
The way this product works is by siphoning the water from the aquarium (into a bucket) and as this is happens you push the
end of the cleaner into the gravel which in turn cleans it!
Make sure you don’t take to much water from your aquarium – 20% is about right.
3. Water Change (every 2 weeks):
This is best done at the same time as cleaning the gravel as you will already be taking 20% of the water out from the aquarium.
Put some fresh cold water in a big bucket to the volume of 20% of your aquarium. Add some API Aquarium Stress Coat
to the water in the bucket and leave to stand for a few hours. When you have done this top up your aquarium with the water
from the bucket It is very important to undertake regular water changes to dilute the nitrate.
4. Cleaning Your Filter (every 3 weeks):
Take the media from your filter. You will notice there are grades of sponge and some ceramic/plastic biological media.
The biological media must not be cleaned in tap water and instead must be cleaned in the aquarium water to keep the
beneficial bacteria alive. (This bacteria turns the fishes waste nitrite into nitrate. This is very important because nitrite is
poisonous to your fish where as nitrate is only dangerous in high levels). All the other media can be cleaned under tap water.
Knowledge:
Books are a great way of learning the basics and you can find a good selection on our website or you can also contact
Fish-Fish-Fish on 01799 550 943 or e-mail for any free advice you may need anytime.
Written by fishfishfish
Categories: Keeping Tropical Fish Tags: Aquarium, Setting
Q&A: How would you go about setting up a 20 gallon tropical fish aquarium?
Question by red_oktober78765: How would you go about setting up a 20 gallon tropical fish aquarium?
I am thinking about getting a complete 20 gallon setup.
Best answer:
Answer by =D Alessandra
If you planning to have tropical fish (this exclude goldfish because theiir coldwater) you would definetely need a heater.
Items:
Tank
Filter
Heater
Gravel
Plants (I prefer plastic plants for beginners)
Gravel Vac
Aquarium Test Kit (pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate)
Hood
Lights
SETTING UP THE TANK:
You should rinse all the ornaments. You should place the gravel first then fill up the water to about 1/3 of the tank. Then you should start planting your tank. If you decided to go with plastic plants, that should be fine, if you decided to go with aquarium plants, this is the best time to plant it. You should also put all the aquarium ornaments in. It would also be best to place the heater and the filter now since you can easily slide the heater down (if it’s submersible) and the filte should be hooked up according to the directions in the packet.
NITROGEN CYCLE
Often, once a tank is set-up, most fish owners don’t know this, they just put about bazillions of fish in the tank. The nitrogen cycle is when ammonia released by the fish is converted in to nitrites by a different type of bacteria. Then the nitrites are converted into nitrates and the plants absobr the nitrtates as fertilizers. It would be best to have a fishless cycle, since it won’t harm the fish. Any source of ammonia can be used to cycle the tank. You should use the aquarium test kits (for freshwater) to test the water from time to time (weekly) to see how the cycle is going. It can take as long as 6 weeks to cycle the tank. That’s how long it took for mine to get cycled.
In a 20 gallon tank, it’s a bigger tank but you can’t put as much fish as you can with 55 gallon tanks. Don’t follow the 1 inch per gallon rule. It’s a very dumb rule and there are ways to defeat it.
I recommend having tetras, barbs and catfish for a 20 gallon tank. Cichlids could work too but you would want to haev a bigger tank. Almost any tetras,barbs, and catfish. I would not recommend mixing Tiger Barbs with other long finned fish such as some logn finned tetras. Danios and Rasboras are good fish too to have in the tank. Corydoras catfish would probably the best catfish to have.
Here are what I recommend:
TETRAS:
Neon Tetras
Bleeding Heart Tetras
Black Phantom Tetras
Emperor Tetras
Red-eyed Tetras
Copper Tetras
Red Phantom Tetras
Cardinal Tetras
BARBS:
Cherry Barbs
Gold Barbs
Rosy Barbs
Tiger Barbs (different variatns)
CATFISH:
Bronze Cory
Skunk Cory
Panda Cory
Julii Cory
Peppered Cory
Pygmy Cory
Zebra Pleco
Otocinclus Catfish
LIVEBEARERS: Do not mix with barb unless the barbs are in huge groups
Platies
Mollies
Guppies
Swordtails
Labyrinth Fish: Smaller fish with smaller fish only
Dwarf Gourami
Thick Lipped Gourami
Siamese Fighting Fish (watch out for fin nipping)
Honey Gourami
Sparkling Gourami
There are other fish that you could keep out there that you just need to research in order to have a good tank
Hope I helped!
Give your answer to this question below!